DARTS TO PRINCESS SEAMS
I've made a LFJ on the blog and now its time to make the Little French Skirt....I have the perfect boucle but no pattern, so this is a quick tutorial showing how to make a down and dirty princess seamed pattern from a dart.
Its very hard to fit a quilted skirt when you only have side seams, but by adding the extra princess seams you are building in plenty of fitting opportunity...(and darts in a thick boucle are not pretty or flattering!)
The side slits will change to two back vents and the darts to seams but other than that, it remains the same pattern.
I'm going to show this on mini pattern pieces ...so cute! although it is the actual pattern - it won't be exactly to scale here.
Begin by drawing a line from the dart point straight down to the hem -
Using a French curve, round off the dart legs so they curve smoothly..
Repeat for both dart legs on both sides of each panel.
Your pattern should look similar to the one above.. although the picture makes the right curve looks a little wonky here, make sure they run straight down...
Following your new pattern line, cut your pattern removing the triangle of dart, adjusting the curves shape if necessary while cutting.
Your new skirt panel.
*Full tutorial to come over the next few weeks on how to make a little French skirt*
!
THREE WAISTBAND OPTIONS:
Drafting a straight waistband that sits directly on the waist:
The original skirt pattern is designed to sit on the waist, with a facing supporting it.
To add a very simple waistband to this pattern - (which as it has no curve needs to remain sitting on the waist)
Measure the entire waistline of the pattern...subtracting the darts from the final total.
Draw a rectangle for the length and double the width of your final waistband.
You can use a simple interfacing to support the waistband, thread baste organza or run a bias/grosgain/petersham ribbon on the inside - I will do this for my quilted skirt next week and add the link and plenty of pics.....
*and of course....don't forget to reduce the upper part of your skirt pattern by the new waistband width...*
Drafting a curved wasitband that sits just below the waist -
To begin, cut off the width at the top of your skirt to account for the new waistband.
Measure your new skirt waist subtracting the darts from the final figure and make the same straight waistband as shown above..
Now make a slash exactly in the middle of the band and pivot the entire lower peice until matches your new waist measurement.
Smooth of the edges and add your notations, tab, button extras etc...
This is your new curved and perfectly fitted waistband.
As it is curved, you will need to cut two of the same, interface them and join the upper seam before attaching it to your skirt...
The principle is the same as the collar method listed under attaching the collar
*Reduce your skirt pattern by the new waistband width*
Using the facing to make a waistband
The shorter edge of your facing is in fact the exact length of your skirt pattern. This is the length you need for your waistband.
I'm using my mini pattern pieces just to be confusing!
The top shorter edge of the facing is 6" but the bottom is 7.5". I need to reduce the bottom to 6".
Draw two darts each measuring .75" and remove both completely.
Then re-join both sides, left and right, overlapping until the entire bottom measures 6" as well.
(Red is facing measurements, black are waistband measurements)
Use a French curve to tidy up the edges and repeat for the back skirt panel.
*Reduce your skirt pattern by the new waistband width*
You now have a perfectly fitted curving waistband :-)
Thats it from me, you will all be glad to hear!!
Back Monday, have a great weekend.
Leisa