This month is flying by, so I thought it was time to get some suggestions out there for sew along supplies before we reach May.
I did make a very quick muslin last week just to work out the best construction order, and was surprised and extremely happy about how quickly the whole thing came together.
Its going to be a great first jacket pattern as well as a more advanced make. As you can see below, the collar is part of the actual bodice which not only makes it less intimidating but also a easy sew.
There is a very interesting two piece front bodice as well as side fronts and backs, giving you lots of opportunity for fit, and over all the whole jacket has a nice flattering silhouette. Its very feminine.
FABRIC'S
Marfy have suggested a classic boucle for this jacket, and its a great choice if the quilted version does not appeal to you but you like the look, its also its a fantastic fabric to tailor as the pad stitching will disappear into the fibers.
However, I think that the corners will be very difficult to sew, if the fabric is to lofty or thick. So that should factor into your final choice.... the boucle I am using feels like a medium denim and has a firmer hand.
A cashmere or wool crepe, a medium denim or a thick linen would also work really well, as well as a medium to heavy cotton. Although if you are tailoring some or all of the jacket, only a wool or similar will work as you need to be able to hide the pad stitching......I would suggest between 2 and 3 yards of fabric depending on size and width and the same for lining.
TAILORING OPTIONS
There are loads of options for all levels of tailoring, which I am personally very excited about. I've discovered, in the last few years, that this is one of my all time favorite garments to sew.
I think its going to be fun to include not only iron in fusibles which work really well, but also the full pad stitched horsehair / back stay/ chest felted / twill taped version!
On a jacket style like this, its not necessary to do all the above if I am being honest, but if you did want to try some new techniques this is a good garment to experiment with.
For those who follow me on Instagram, you will already have seen that I have been busy shopping in NYC and have bought most of what Steinlauf and Stoller has to offer in their tailoring section, I thought it would be useful to show what was available and also give a rough cost..
You can of course do some / all/ or absolutely nothing but fusibles for this jacket as i'm going to show options for all levels as we go along...
Below is the real deal, pure 100% hair canvas. It feels like thicker stiff linen but is very soft and while it rolls easily, it does not fold without huge creases......its kind of gorgeous actually :-) This is $15 per yard and 21 1/2" wide.
If this is your first jacket, the fusible horse hair below is definitely the best of both worlds. Its lightweight, pliable and reasonably soft. You could iron this to the jacket and experiment with some pad stitching and twill tape (or not!) This is $9 per yard and 31" wide.
Below is a pre-made tailored front, these are kind of cool. They come in a pair and are meant for men's tailoring so are long -almost 36" - and wide. Of course you can be cut them down to any size you need.
One of the things I really like is that they already come with a heavy bias cut shoulder re-enforcement, a full chest piece and a felted chest pad. It certainly cuts down the time! These cost $20 for each pair.
They are so long!!.......
Shoulder pads - $2 per pair
Sleeve heads - $1.90 per pair
3/4" twill tape - $0.20 a yard - this is a better width but the 1/2" will work almost as well.
1/2" twill tape - $0.30 a yard
and finally another option is to add a chest piece using felt padding, or use it to make shoulder pads, breast padding or sleeve heads (or line a Ziggi motorcycle jacket!)
I bought a very lightweight ($5.50), a medium fusible ($6.50) and a heavy needle punch ($5.50) but for this jacket I won't be using any of them as I want the boucle to hang as naturally as possible without padding.
Of course, don't forget that you don't need to use any of these! a iron in fusible hair canvas won't be quite the same as a fully pad stitched front panel but it will still work nicely :-)
I'll add as many tailoring suppliers as I can find to the resource list tomorrow but if you can recommend any, please let me know and I will add them to...
I've started my first jacket in the most amazing fabric I have ever seen...
A Chan*l haute couture boucle, a fine heavily weaved wool that has metalic weft and warp threads.
and I will be slowly working on this throughout the week....
DRESS FORMS
I get asked quite often what dress form I use.
I've had a Fabulous fit for the last seven years but frustratingly the frame that holds the form snapped clean off a few months ago.
I kept meaning to replace the form but as I wanted to have one made to measure, it just went on the long list of things to do....
But after a email last week, it turns out I need one for next Monday, as I am unexpectedly and happily going to join in some classes in Baltimore with Susan Khalje and the amazing Julian Cristofoli (more on that next week)
When I realized I needed one, Susan suggested Roxy and so I bought the $249 half body on Wednesday and it was unbelievably delivered via UPS at 2pm Thursday for a standard shipping cost. Its not a perfect fit but its fairly close and it will be padded and shaped more for accuracy when the draping class starts on Monday.
Its a surprisingly sturdy form, well made and easy to put together....and so far I am really impressed especially for the cost....so if anyone is in the market for a cheap and cheerful form this may very well be it!
There might not be much finished sewing going on for the next week or so as Thursday I leave for Chicago. It's my first visit and I can't wait....I'm chaperoning my daughter for a school event, but we've planned it so Friday is free for sight seeing.
If anyone can recommend places to visit, or more importantly gluten/dairy or paleo friendly food please send me a email or leave a comment, I would so appreciate it...thank you!!!!!!!
I'll have the full sew along schedule on Monday and the first muslin prep post so we can get started....the purist in me is planning a slow sew for this one!
Thats it I think, detail overload!
Wishing everyone a lovely week
Leisa