Anyway, I've made another jacket.
I first saw this fabric in an article in Threads years ago and immediately called Alice asking if they still had stock but sadly it was all sold and so I've waited patiently for it to go back into a limited production at the mill for all of this time.
and as I've tried on Susan's jacket many times in the last few years (not entirely convinced it was not made for me as it fits perfectly, which weirdly she keeps denying!) I knew not to try and attempt a similar Little French Jacket as Susan's is pure perfection, and something I could not possibly emulate.
So, instead, I thought of Marfy 3056, which has some lovely lines as well as interesting bias potential.
and overall it came together really nicely.
As usual, I made a quick muslin, as I was really not sure if the back design was going to work with the boucle pattern and wanted to see and feel how much ease had been built in overall...
and in theory, this jacket is quite loose and boxy, so I realized I could cut the overlapping button detail as intended and remove the entire section for a more form-fitting jacket if I did not end up liking it.
This pattern as a whole does not need much fitting, the bodice is not slim fitting and the raglan needed less shaping, so as soon as I was happy with the construction order, I heavily marked the muslin with red lines for pattern matching and took it apart.
Cutting the fabric out while leaving a whole square of clearance on both sides and ends for pattern matching.
And even though this boucle is already pretty stable with a nice firm hand, I did decide to underline it in silk organza to help reinforce the button holes, corners, and trim.
There was not much to do in the way of prep, but I did stay stitched both corners of the front bodice with a tiny 0.8 stitch to reinforce them before construction so that I could cut in all the way to the stitch lines before sewing to keep the angle sharp and clean.
Shown here in a tutorial from last year
The pocket bag is attached to the lower seam and sewed in easily.
and frustratingly, I did spend a whole evening adding bound button holes to the back of the jacket, beating the lofty hand into submission with lots of steam and a clapper to make everything lay flat and neat.
I just pinned a random button to the back to get a feel for the look...
Only to decide that overall it was just too much, my eyes simply did not know where to go first.....and my husband and kids kept telling me it looked like I had put it on backward, so I bowed to the pressure and cut both sides off removing all 5" of additional ease in the process.
Which ultimately just made it into a really nice fitted jacket...and while I loved the back button detail, I think next time I would only attempt it in a very plain medium weight wool or similar which would, of course, be absolutely gorgeous especially in black...hmmm...
and from there it was really a straight run.
I added embroidery thread to the pocket flaps and sleeve detail to enhance the bias cut and while its really kind of subtle I love it.
and as I wanted to keep the front overlap detail as shown, I sewed trim to both sides of the front and then used snaps for closures hiding the outside ones in the trim.
Before using a black silk charmeuse for the lining and hand sewing it in with a fell stitch, before adding a lightweight chain.
One of my favorite details is the natural bias on the sleeve cap, definitely something I don't often think about but love when a pattern highlights it...
So, overall, I love love love this pattern, its flattering, easy to sew and the raglan sleeve is super easy to fit and as comfortable as ever. Highly recommended and one I will be using again and again!
A profoundly moving and beautifully written autobiography by Paul Kalanithi. Don't listen while driving (trust me).
I’m off to a very clean and organized sewing room to make some mess!!
Have a lovely week everybody :-)
Leisa