Its official, this is the most complicated pattern I have ever made......twice!... and it's still my favorite by far....
Technically if you break it down, its just a coat with an overlaid cape but there are so many elements to this pattern......and they all need to come together exactly for it to work...
I had some issues with the back cape the first time I made this coat, and so for this one, I spent a day or so playing around with different construction options, finally deciding to sew the cape to the bodice first.
As only portions of the cape seams are sewn into the coat, it was easier to get this exact before the entire sleeve was attached.
Logically it would have made more sense for the cape to be sewn as one, the sleeves sewn to the cape and then the entire thing sewn to the bodice...
but it was pulling the grain lines off, on both the side and inner arm seams, which in turn affected the drape.
While it was extra work to construct it this way and there was a fair amount of hand stitching on both the inside and outside, I think it works well. A chain across the hem of all three cape pieces also helps to keep it all hanging properly, Chanel was certainly onto something when she thought of this..I would add them to everything!
CONSTRUCTION DETAILS
The fabric is a fine wool cashmere bought from Mood a few years ago.. its seriously gorgeous stuff!
although its not that common , I ended up putting hair canvas on the entire front panel to support and shape both the wool and all of the bound button holes...
and pad stitched, pad stitched and pad stitched... I noticed as the temps dropped that it was not shaping as nicely as it usually would but cranking up the heat took care of that! I still find it so fascinating that the heat from my hands can shape a entire lapel....who works this stuff out?
I also used ice wool again for extra warmth...
and pre- lined the sleeves and cape, just overlapping the bodice lining to the sleeve lining at the end and using a small fell stitch to join the two together..
(The hook that holds my dressform has broken, so I have no clear lining pics but will add them as soon as its fixed)
The buttons are from M&J trim . Originally I was going to make matching fabric buttons, but I literally had nothing left over to use...
I was also concerned that making a coat with a cape in a dark wool could be a problem, as the small details tend to get lost in that much fabric...So I knew visually I needed to define my waist.
I had this buckle in my stash left over from a cape I made and I really liked the idea of sewing it on the top belt and using snaps to secure the two layers together. Its not something I'd seen before, so I wanted to try it....
and at the last minute I removed the pocket flaps. They just seemed to be throwing the proportions off.
So thats the last major make for this year, I now have both LFJ's to finish before the new year and then I am almost caught up.
Tomorrow I am off to the city to fabric shop for the Marfy sew along, and am hoping to be really inspired!
Book this week is Alice Munro Dear Life, loving it so far!
Audible all week has been Marisha Pessl night film, seriously intriguing.
and can I really really recommend Luther. Its pretty hardcore, but Idris Elba is truly incredible. He is playing Mandela in A Long walk to freedom and has some serious Oscar buzz..... Pad stitching flies by when you are watching these!
Leisa ;-)