Marfy sew along 1756 Pt 17 - Pocket and jacket linings..

Finally....the last construction post!!

LININGS

Pockets - 

Once your trim is attached,  your pocket will need a lining..

I like to use scraps of fabric here when possible, as being on grain is not to important in a small pocket!

I used a single threaded cotton fell stitch to sew my pocket linings down, but if you prefer a machine stitch will also work well here (as well as the bagging method shown below)

I then pinned and sewed them with a fell stitch to my jacket... but again a machine stitch in a less bulky fabric is also a good option if you prefer top stitching (and can manoeuvre around trim)  

Fell stitching - 

There is some info here from the LFJ on fell stitching

Threads Magazine

Coletterie

The tailoress

Bodice and sleeves -

Marfy generally don't provide lining patterns but its easy to make one using the main pattern as a base.

As you can see above the two pieces to the left are the main jacket pattern  and the single piece on the right is the facing.

The facing on the inside of the jacket will cover most of the front two panels ..... but there is still a small section left...in order to find that portion flip your facing pattern onto your front pattern..

The area marked with a 11 is left uncovered, so that's what we need to include now...

And below is the full new lining pattern (sleeves not shown)....both end pieces have the additional part taped to them.

Cut your lining paying careful attention to your grain lines as always.   Here rather than thread trace I like to use carbon paper and reduce the seam allowance to less than a inch...

Sew the pieces together using a regular stitch length,  back tacking at both ends...press well.

There are a couple of ways you can insert the lining....one is the bagging method, and I have included some links below:-

Threads

Grainline Studios  

Emma one sock

Fell stitch

Or you can use a  fell stitch.  I absolutely love this method, it gives you complete control over not only the lining, but also the drape and fit...and its very simple to do.

Pin your complete lining roughly into your jacket with the WS facing the WS.....the RS should be facing you as it will be in the finished garment.  

Start to match major junctions, shoulders, back collar corners, front facing etc  using pins to hold as necessary...

and when things start to line up, add extra pins until the lining is exactly where you would like it.  If possible at this point, use a dress form to check for pulling or drape issues....and if you don't have one -  a coat hanger will be just as good.

Use a single thread of knotted cotton and fell stitch starting at the collar, work down one side of the facing...and then repeat for the other side.

Hang your jacket up again here and check that your hem is still fitting nicely and then fell stitch it down.

Finally sew your sleeve hems...

So thats it!!  longest sew along ever :-)

and I admit I need a break...major sewing burnout.   I have some lining to finish and some of the fashion fabric to tidy up, but I am going to enjoy a few days of not sewing and not thinking about sewing,  I will be back Monday with a finished garment.