The Boheme Fit and Flare Dress - Princess Bodice and Facing Construction
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Leisa Stanton 3 min read

The Boheme Fit and Flare Dress - Princess Bodice and Facing Construction
[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="731"] The Boheme bodice is the same for all the Boheme patterns. However, the sleeveless sheath does have a wider armseye. The sleeves from the sheath and the fit and flare are interchangeable. There is a third Boheme pattern coming soon, that also has the same bodice and can be used with all the sleeve options. The Boheme bodice is the same for all the Boheme patterns. However, the sleeveless sheath does have a wider armseye. The sleeves from the sheath and the fit and flare are interchangeable. There is a third Boheme pattern coming soon, that also has the same bodice and can be used with all the sleeve options. [/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="5712"] The front piece - 1 is cut on FOLD The front piece - 1 is cut on FOLD [/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="5712"] Cut one on FOLD of piece 1 Cut two of piece 2 Cut two of piece 3 Cut two of piece 4 Serge / finish the edges before sewing. Cut one on FOLD of piece 1 Cut two of piece 2 Cut two of piece 3 Cut two of piece 4 Serge / finish the edges before sewing. [/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="3024"] Start with piece 1 - front and 2 - side front. The princess curve is steep, and has been designed to create an exceptional fit at the bust. It does make it a little more tricky to sew, and I would suggest easing it in with lots of pins before heading to your machine. Start with piece 1 - front and 2 - side front. The princess curve is steep, and has been designed to create an exceptional fit at the bust. It does make it a little more tricky to sew, and I would suggest easing it in with lots of pins before heading to your machine. [/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="5712"] Sew using a 5/8” seam allowance, and have pattern piece 1 - front, facing towards you. As you can see above, when easing a curved seam into a straight seam, the fabric needs help as you round this curved area. Having the straight piece (1) on top helps, as you can feed and pull the fabric as you round the curve. I slow my machine down here, and manipulate the curve as it stitches. Sew using a 5/8” seam allowance, and have pattern piece 1 - front, facing towards you. As you can see above, when easing a curved seam into a straight seam, the fabric needs help as you round this curved area. Having the straight piece (1) on top helps, as you can feed and pull the fabric as you round the curve. I slow my machine down here, and manipulate the curve as it stitches. [/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="3024"] Once sewn, snip along the curve before pressing to help the seam lie flat. Once sewn, snip along the curve before pressing to help the seam lie flat. [/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="5712"] And while it is not always possible, when you can, always sew bottom to top - this applies to all garments but specifically here, due to the very steep bias we are sewing into on the curve. As you can see from the example above: the left side was sewn top to bottom - it stretched the bias on the center panel as I sewed the upper section first. The right side was sewn bottom to top, helping the fabric remain on grain and stretch free as the bulk of the seam was sewn on grain before reaching the bias section. Sew the side back and back to the bodice using 5/8” seam allowances. Sew the shoulders together. And while it is not always possible, when you can, always sew bottom to top - this applies to all garments but specifically here, due to the very steep bias we are sewing into on the curve. As you can see from the example above: the left side was sewn top to bottom - it stretched the bias on the center panel as I sewed the upper section first. The right side was sewn bottom to top, helping the fabric remain on grain and stretch free as the bulk of the seam was sewn on grain before reaching the bias section. Sew the side back and back to the bodice using 5/8” seam allowances. Sew the shoulders together. [/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="4284"] The facing pieces on the fit and flare are 5 and 6. 5 is cut one and 6 is cut two If your fashion fabric is lightweight and needs stability, add a lightweight interfacing to the facing. Serge or hem your raw edges. The facing pieces on the fit and flare are 5 and 6. 5 is cut one and 6 is cut two If your fashion fabric is lightweight and needs stability, add a lightweight interfacing to the facing. Serge or hem your raw edges. [/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="4032"] Pin the shoulder seams together. Pin the shoulder seams together. [/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="5712"] and sew, using a 5/8” seam allowance. Press the seams open. and sew, using a 5/8” seam allowance. Press the seams open. [/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="4032"] Pin your facing neckline to the bodice neckline, right side to right side. Pin your facing neckline to the bodice neckline, right side to right side. [/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="4032"] Sew using a 5/8” seam allowance. Sew using a 5/8” seam allowance. [/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="4032"] Trim the seam down, and snip around the curved areas to release tension. Press the seams onto the facing side. Trim the seam down, and snip around the curved areas to release tension. Press the seams onto the facing side. [/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="5712"] Understitch by running a stitch close to the seam on the facing side only - catching the trimmed seams underneath. This stops the facing from rolling towards the bodice. Understitch by running a stitch close to the seam on the facing side only - catching the trimmed seams underneath. This stops the facing from rolling towards the bodice. [/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="4032"] Press the edge seam well. Press the edge seam well. [/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="4032"] Thats it, a lovely crisp and beautifully finished neckline - ready for the zipper. Thats it, a lovely crisp and beautifully finished neckline - ready for the zipper. [/caption]
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