The Dauphine Skirt - Construction / Front
dauphine construction Dauphine Overview Dauphine Pattern Dauphine Skirt Digital Patterns Original Patterns
Leisa Stanton 4 min read

The Dauphine Skirt - Construction / Front
[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="5712"] Join the fly to one side of the garment, sewers choice. I usually add mine to the left being English, but if you prefer the right, add it to that side! Join the fly to one side of the garment, sewers choice. I usually add mine to the left being English, but if you prefer the right, add it to that side! [/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="5712"] Lay the fly flat and sew a stitch line close to the edge of the garment. This will keep the fly open. If your fabric is bulky, trim slightly. Lay the fly flat and sew a stitch line close to the edge of the garment. This will keep the fly open. If your fabric is bulky, trim slightly. [/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="5712"] Use a 7” all purpose zipper. If you have a longer one, thats fine - we will trim and seal the edge when we add the waistband Use a 7” all purpose zipper. If you have a longer one, thats fine - we will trim and seal the edge when we add the waistband [/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="3024"] Pin the zipper to the fly. The end of your zipper should line up with the end of your fly, let the pull overhang at the top. Sew along the edge of the teeth on the left, using a zipper foot. Pin the zipper to the fly. The end of your zipper should line up with the end of your fly, let the pull overhang at the top. Sew along the edge of the teeth on the left, using a zipper foot. [/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="4284"] Flip the zipper and fly to the inside and pin to hold. Flip the zipper and fly to the inside and pin to hold. [/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="3709"] Next, we will sew our curved line from the outside, this holds the fly extension in place. I like to suggest using your pattern piece as a template. Its easy to follow and leaves a clean smooth line. Remove your seam allowance from the piece - in this instance 5/8” total on the sides and curved edge only. Leave the top seam allowance in place. Next, we will sew our curved line from the outside, this holds the fly extension in place. I like to suggest using your pattern piece as a template. Its easy to follow and leaves a clean smooth line. Remove your seam allowance from the piece - in this instance 5/8” total on the sides and curved edge only. Leave the top seam allowance in place. [/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="3024"] Pin your template to the outside of your garment Pin your template to the outside of your garment [/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="4284"] Use the guide to sew your curve, as you get to the rounded edge at the end, tuck your zipper tails under so they don’t get caught in the stitch line. Use the guide to sew your curve, as you get to the rounded edge at the end, tuck your zipper tails under so they don’t get caught in the stitch line. [/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="4032"] Open and fold your left zipper guard , so you can clearly access the right side of the zipper, and place your folded fly piece underneath. You can just see the angled edge at the end of the zipper. Sew close to the teeth. Open and fold your left zipper guard , so you can clearly access the right side of the zipper, and place your folded fly piece underneath. You can just see the angled edge at the end of the zipper. Sew close to the teeth. [/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="4032"] Open this piece up, and press flat. Open this piece up, and press flat. [/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="5712"] Next we attach the right front side to the left. There is a half inch seam allowance. Next we attach the right front side to the left. There is a half inch seam allowance. [/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="5712"] Fold your seam allowance under, and pin to your zipper. Your folded fly will lie directly under the upper right front. Run a stitch close to the edge joining the two upper fronts together, to complete your zipper construction. Fold your seam allowance under, and pin to your zipper. Your folded fly will lie directly under the upper right front. Run a stitch close to the edge joining the two upper fronts together, to complete your zipper construction. [/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="5712"] Run a small bar tack where the pin is placed, to hold the two fly pieces together. Run a small bar tack where the pin is placed, to hold the two fly pieces together. [/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="5712"] To join the lower half of the panel, fold the seam allowance of the left side over onto the right side and stitch. To join the lower half of the panel, fold the seam allowance of the left side over onto the right side and stitch. [/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="4284"] Congratulations, the hardest part is done! Congratulations, the hardest part is done! [/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="5712"] Sew piece 3 - Lower front to the upper front piece. Sew piece 3 - Lower front to the upper front piece. [/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="5712"] Pockets next! Find your center, and create a fold of 3/4” from each side to create your pleat. Pockets next! Find your center, and create a fold of 3/4” from each side to create your pleat. [/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="5712"] Fold your seam allowance under on all four edges, press lightly before stitching a permanent topstitch along the top edge. Fold your seam allowance under on all four edges, press lightly before stitching a permanent topstitch along the top edge. [/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="5712"] Sew the three edges to the front of the skirt, and repeat on the other side of the skirt. Sew the three edges to the front of the skirt, and repeat on the other side of the skirt. [/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="4032"] Fold the seam allowances under and topstitch the two sides and the bottom edge Fold the seam allowances under and topstitch the two sides and the bottom edge [/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="5712"] Line the point of the pocket flap to the pleat on the pocket and stitch along the upper seam to the skirt. Repeat for the left side. A nice option is to top stitch the pocket flap sides to match the pocket if using a contrasting thread. Line the point of the pocket flap to the pleat on the pocket and stitch along the upper seam to the skirt. Repeat for the left side. A nice option is to top stitch the pocket flap sides to match the pocket if using a contrasting thread. [/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="4032"] When the pockets are attached, fold your two upper pleats in towards the center. Stitch close to the edge to hold. When the pockets are attached, fold your two upper pleats in towards the center. Stitch close to the edge to hold. [/caption]

And that’s the front done, on to the back…..

Back to the blog